GEMM exercises, one helluva lot, several essential features of any computer system: (i.) memory access, since so much fetching of data has to occur for large matrices; (ii.) ALU performance, since there is so much arithmetic to be done, viz. $\sum a[i] * b[i]$ for arrays
$a[i], b[i]$; (iii.) control flow , since so much looping and/or (possibly recursive) subroutine calling must generally be done. So GEMM provides a nice mix of at least these three areas of functionality. And since the tests make the most sense for large matrices, it is relatively easy to generate good statistics from running GEMM-like codes.
Edit: Material added in response to oasisweng's comment: The following is too long for even two comments, so I've added it here: it's not just that a large number of operations are required, it is also very important that the codes exercise different functional units such as memory, ALUs, controllers, preferably in a manner which forces them to interact. Only then can we find out if they do so efficiently, don't stall one another, etc. If the matrices are small, then you will exercise things differently than if you have large matrices, so the tests have to be run with a variety of input data. Obviously, if all you have is a small number of small matrices, the test(s) won't tell you very much. But a large number of smallish matrices or a smallish number of large matrices will exercise the machine in different ways, each of which will be telling. We are implicitly assuming that the mix of initial data is both large and heterogeneous enough to significantly exercise the machine. There's no fixed lower bound for "big enough", but as machines get more powerful the size of the data sets tend to grow. In conclusion, there's very little which is absolutely fixed, so you have to design test suites which are sufficiently varied. Finally, there are a couple of books on computer architecture by Patterson and Hennessy which address these kinds of questions very well; google around and you'll find them. End of Edit.
My take on it anyway.
Hope this helps. Cheerio,
and as always,
Fiat Lux!